Is Your Spa Green Around the Gills?

February 17th, 2011

Cloudy green spa water is actually not a very common problem. It is caused by algae growth, and a well-maintained spa will usually not have this issue if only because spa water heated to a typical operating range and kept there is not very hospitable to algae (it doesn’t like the heat).

However, if you do get algae bloom, the usual recommendation is to shock the tub based on the instructions in your chlorine or bromine based product. Run the pump for 3 or 4 hours following the shock treatment, and then clean the filter. If the infestation was severe, you may have to repeat the sequence several times.

Prevent Green Spa Water with an Ozone Maintenance Program

The usual cause of algae in spas is insufficient sanitizer. The sanitation routine recommended by DEL Ozone will prevent algae blooms.

  • Install and maintain a spa ozonator properly sized for your hot tub. We recommend running the pump at least six hours per day to ensure the water is circulated through the ozonator. If you use the spa heavily, run the pump more often. Older spas with continuous circulation pumps spend more energy, but they yield high levels of sanitation.
  • Maintain a background residual of about 0.5 to 1.0 ppm chlorine, again depending on the bather load. Maintaining some free available chlorine in the spa water will ensure that algae cannot get started in the nooks and crannies.
  • Test the water regularly to maintain the proper pH (7.2- 7.6) and total alkalinity balance (60 to 180 ppm) to help the residual chemicals work most effectively.

It is important to note that the ozonator cannot stop an algae bloom once it gets started. Algae attached to the spa walls will not encounter enough ozone to destroy it. Ozone does kill algae, but the ozone injected into your spa dissipates very rapidly in encounters with other contaminants, and it decomposes rapidly into ordinary oxygen. Therefore, if algae get a foothold, you have to go to a chemical attack.

It’s better to avoid the problem. Keep that ozonator humming.

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Posted by DELOzone on February 17, 2011 | Trackbacks

Nature2 and Ozone Make a Natural Pair

January 19th, 2011

Nature2 is offered as an alternative sanitation system for spas and pools, with promises of cleaner water without the drawbacks of chlorine. However, Nature2 recognizes that it does not oxidize all the organics that a spa may contain, so it recommends using its product ‘Cense’ as the required oxidizer (a version of MSP, or monopersulfate).

We have nothing against MSP, but why not have the best oxidizer you can have, without adding ANY more chemicals? It’s not just DEL saying this. Here’s the assessment of freedrinkingwater.com:

“Ozone, fed into the water continuously by an ozone generator, is the strongest oxidizer for pool [or spa] water treatment. …Ozone has a minimal effect on pH and water chemistry.”

The bottom line for spa and pool disinfection is that ozone is the strongest, broad-spectrum oxidizer that can be delivered simply and reliably. Ozone combines well with Nature2 minerals to cover the gaps in sanitation left by Nature2 alone.

What is Nature2?

Nature2 is a “mineral bed” that is installed in your spa circulation to deposit silver and copper ions into the water to kill bacteria and algae, respectively. This is distinct from ionizing systems because the minerals are deposited through the flow of water through a cartridge rather than an electrical ionization process. Nature2 shares some benefits with ozone in that neither of them relies on excessive use of chemicals like chlorine that can have harmful byproducts when used at high enough doses to be effective.

So, is Ozone plus Nature2 Your Best Option?

No disinfection system is perfect, but if your criteria are for a simple and effective disinfection routine that produces clean, fresh smelling water with minimal harmful byproducts, start with ozone. Whether you choose to supplement it with Nature2 (or another mineral or ionizer treatment) or a small residual level of chlorine, you will be able to maintain fresh, safe water in your spa.

We have traditionally recommended a strong ozone system coupled with a small residual amount of chlorine (maintained at about 3 ppm for spas, depending on your typical usage) for a simple, low cost way to keep spa water pure. The chemicals and the tests they need are widely available and understood. But if Nature2 appeals to you, we know it can also work.

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Posted by DELOzone on January 19, 2011 | Trackbacks

Get the Right Ozonator for Your Spa

January 1st, 2011

If you have done your research, you know that ozone is the most effective method you can choose to sanitize/disinfect your spa. When combined with a low level of Free Available Chlorine, ozone provides a low maintenance way to enjoy pristine spa water.

Now, there are a lot of ozonators on the market. DEL by itself offers 3 models with somewhat different characteristics. Which is right for you?

Ozone versus UV

The very first thing to understand is that UV, even UV ozone, is not as effective as the corona discharge (CD) ozonator in providing a reliable broad spectrum disinfectant. The best of the alternatives to CD ozone, UV ozone is limited by the fact that ONLY water flowing through the light chamber is treated, whereas CD ozone is injected into the water downstream from the pump, so there is a small residual effect. Further, the CD ozonator mechanically controls the ozone production for a more reliable sanitizer that does not require frequent lamp cleaning or replacement.

See the table in DEL’s spa website to see how alternative sanitizers stack up against CD ozone.

Factors to Consider in Choosing an Ozonator

You can download a spa ozone generator comparison brochure to see which DEL Ozone generator would be right for your spa. In short, the factors to consider include:

  • Spa size: different ozonators inject different amount of ozone, so the larger the spa, the larger the capacity of the ozonator must be.
  • Bather load: if you party a lot in the hot tub, get a bigger ozonator.
  • Electrical service: spa ozone generators come in 120 and 240 volt (or dual voltage) types, so you need to pick the one that matches the power pack in your spa.
  • Cost: ozonators’ prices vary widely. Higher priced models should have higher capacity and longer life. Read the fine print.

DEL Ozone Spa Generators

DEL Ozone makes spa ozonators for spas of all sizes. DEL pioneered the CD technology for spas, and is now beginning production of the third generation Advanced Plasma Gap model for original equipment manufacturers. The original ozonator in your hot tub or spa was probably a DEL, and you can replace it with one. Use the comparison chart to pick the right one, or visit the spa website to evaluate DEL’s replacement spa ozonators.

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Posted by DELOzone on January 1, 2011 | Trackbacks

Do You Want to Season Your Spa with Salt?

December 14th, 2010

It’s like déjà vu all over again. Now spa owners are beginning to hear about salt chlorine generators as a way to sanitize their spas. This is the same approach we’ve seen in residential swimming pools for about 30 years now, ever since the idea emigrated from Australia.

Unfortunately, the problems with salt chlorine generators are similar with spas as they are with pools, too. You are better off with a good ozone generator complemented by a low level of chlorine as backup, and if you want to generate that chlorine with a salt chlorine generator, that makes a good, compatible system. But relying primarily on the salt chlorine generator as your primary disinfection system will leave a lot to be desired, and will not satisfy all your disinfection needs.

About the Salt Chlorine Generator

The basic idea is simple. The water in the spa is maintained with a salt concentration (1500 to 3000 ppm, which is much less than sea water) that is low enough so that most people either do not detect it or do not find it irritating. The salty water passes through a device where a chemical reaction takes place, generating chlorine (HOCl) from the salt (NaCl) molecules. The chlorine is dissolved in the spa, and sanitizes precisely like any other chlorine – the only difference is the source.

Corrosion, Anyone?

Actually, the corrosion issue is not the most serious problem with salt as a primary sanitizer: it is the weaknesses of chlorine as a sanitizer that is the bigger issue. However, corrosion is one problem that many salt pool owners experienced over time as their salty pool’s water sloshed into and over susceptible walkways, mechanicals, cabinetry, and accessories. With time, the same kinds of things might happen with hot tubs.

Chlorine is a Narrowcast Disinfectant

More seriously, chlorine is not an optimal disinfectant for recreational water, regardless of its source.

  • Ozone is on average 200 times more powerful per unit than chlorine as an oxidizer (and oxidation is how both of them disinfect the spa water).
  • Ozone kills most bacteria, viruses, and even tough protozoa like cryptosporidium on contact, whereas chlorine can kill them only slowly if at all.
  • Mold and other organic contaminants cannot adapt over time to ozone like they can to chlorine.
  • Properly installed ozone systems are automatically effective and greatly simplify water chemistry adjustments.
  • Ozone oxidizes dissolved natural metallic compounds like copper and iron; human fluids like perspiration and urine; and lotions and cosmetics: chlorine cannot touch these things.
  • Ozone concentrations in spas produce no unwanted side effects, unlike chlorine which can produce odors as well as chemical byproducts like chloramines that are dangerous to human health.

Ozone is the most effective disinfection method available for a recreational spa or hot tub. In combination with a small residual amount of chlorine (from a salt chlorine generator or not – the source is immaterial), it will keep your spa water feeling soft and clean. And the water will, in fact, be clean.

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Posted by DELOzone on December 14, 2010 | Trackbacks

Basic Spa Water Maintenance Routines

November 22nd, 2010

If your ozonator is working properly, your hot tub’s water is getting the most important quality treatment it needs. In fact, because an ozonator super-oxidizes contaminants from perspiration and other bodily fluids, cosmetics, lotions, and random organic and inorganic materials, some people find it possible to stretch out the maintenance schedule for their water.

However, there are reasons why even a high quality heavy-duty ozonator like DEL’s MCD-50 can be overwhelmed, for example, by a very high bather load (party time!). To get the most out of your spa, you also need to manage the water in some very basic ways on a regular schedule.

Change the hot tub water

Drain the water from time to time. How often? It depends on that bather load again, plus the size of your hot tub. If you have continuous family use on a daily basis, you should change the water much more often than if you indulge only once in a while. Here’s a basic schedule:

2 or more bathers every day: change every 30 to 60 days
2 or more bathers every other day: change every 60 to 90 days
2 or more bathers infrequently: change every 4 months

If you maintain the hot tub water chemistry and other factors, and you use the tub very infrequently, you might be able to stretch the change to 6 months, but most experts recommend changing the water at least every 4 months no matter what.

Flushing the system to eliminate scale (a calcium buildup) or biofilm that has built up in parts of the plumbing of the spa will be helpful if the bather load is high OR if your ozonator does not run often enough to circulate ozone into these areas. Maintaining a low level of chlorine to accompany the ozonator will help, but cannot deal with scaling or all the biofilms that can form. These flushing chemicals can be added and circulated just before you drain the tub.

Clean the tub body when it’s empty

When the tub is empty is a good time to clean the surfaces. The one thing to be sure about is to buy a product from your spa dealer that will NOT create a foaming problem due to residues that aren’t rinsed away. If you change your water every month, you may not need to do this, but a visual inspection.

Keep the main filter clean

The main filter should be cleaned at least every time you drain the hot tub, or every 3 months. Before you immerse the filter in the cleaner, be sure to use a strong pressure wash from the hose to remove larger particles. Using a high quality non-foaming filter cleaner, soak the filter in it up to 24 hours, then rinse well and re-install.

Check the water chemistry often

Finally, check the water chemistry at least once a week. The pH is subject to water chemicals that are not affected by the ozonator. Although the water may be “safe” from a bacterial infection, it can be harsh enough to damage skin if the chemicals in the water have greatly altered the pH or alkalinity. Using test strips at least weekly will help you to keep up with the chemistry of the hot tub, so it will be ready for you when you want it.

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Posted by DELOzone on November 22, 2010 | Trackbacks

The Ozonator Can’t Do Everything

November 1st, 2010

If your ozonator is working properly, your hot tub’s water is getting the most important quality treatment it needs. In fact, because an ozonator oxidizes contaminants from perspiration and other bodily fluids, cosmetics, lotions, and random organic materials, some people find it possible to stretch out the maintenance schedule for their water.

However, there are reasons why even a high quality heavy-duty ozonator like DEL’s MCD-50 can be overwhelmed, for example, by a very high bather load (party time!). To get the most out of your spa, you also need to manage the water in some very basic ways on a regular schedule.

Change the hot tub water

Drain the water from time to time.  How often?  It depends on that bather load again, plus the size of your hot tub.  If you have continuous family use on a daily basis, you should change the water much more often than if you indulge only once in a while.  Here’s a basic schedule:

  • 2 or more bathers every day:  change every 30 to 60 days
  • 2 or more bathers every other day:  change every 60 to 90 days
  • 2 or more bathers infrequently:  change every 4 months

If you maintain the hot tub water chemistry and other factors, and you use the tub very infrequently, you might be able to stretch the change to 6 months, but most experts recommend changing the water at least every 4 months no matter what.

Flushing the system to eliminate scale (a calcium buildup) or biofilm that has built up in parts of the plumbing of the spa will be helpful if the bather load is high OR if your ozonator does not run often enough to circulate ozone into these areas. Maintaining a low level of chlorine to accompany the ozonator will help, but cannot deal with scaling or all the biofilms that can form.  These flushing chemicals can be added and circulated just before you drain the tub.

Clean the tub body when it’s empty

When the tub is empty is a good time to clean the surfaces. The one thing to be sure about is to buy a product from your spa dealer that will NOT create a foaming problem due to residues that aren’t rinsed away.  If you change your water every month, you may not need to do this, but a visual inspection

Keep the main filter clean

The main filter should be cleaned at least every time you drain the hot tub, or every 3 months. Before you immerse the filter in the cleaner, be sure to use a strong pressure wash from the hose to remove larger particles. Using a high quality non-foaming filter cleaner, soak the filter in it up to 24 hours, then rinse well and replace. Most experts recommend replacing the filter once a year, but you may keep the old one in rotation to use as a temp while you are soaking the main filter in cleaning solution.

Check the water chemistry often

Finally, check the water chemisty at least once a week.  The pH is subject to water chemicals that are not affected by the ozonator.  Although the water may be “safe” from a bacterial infection, it can be harsh enough to damage skin if the chemicals in the water have greatly altered the pH or alkalinity.  Using test strips at least weekly will help you to keep up with the chemistry of the hot tub, so it will be ready for you when you want it.

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Posted by DELOzone on November 1, 2010 | Trackbacks

Choose a Dealer When You Choose Your Spa

October 10th, 2010

You can buy a spa in so many places these days it’s getting to be a chore to find the best dealers. But it’s worth it:  a good dealer is way more than the source of all things spa.  He or she is also an advisor and educator that will help you get the most enjoyment out of your new spa with the minimum hassle.

No to the Big Box

We know, the big box stores can offer incredible deals on spas (if you are not fussy about where they are made), but just look around at what’s in a big box store.  Is it all about spas?  Nope, by definition, they sell everything but the kitchen sink, or maybe they sell that too.

The huge advantage of the regular spa dealer is that they are experts in spa performance, routine maintenance, and professional help when something needs to be repaired or replaced.  Most times, these dealers are accessible, so you can talk to the right human who fully gets your problem or question. No long empty isles in your local spa dealership!

Good Spa Dealers Know What You Need

In specialized spa dealerships, you will find a range of products and services that will help you to keep your spa fun and healthy for many years. At DEL, we have worked with a huge number of dealers over the years, and we know that the ones who thrive keep their customers’ best interests at heart.

When it comes to spa sanitation, we do have a biased point of view!  But our belief in ozone spa sanitation is based on real world experience, and the experience of thousands of spa owners.  The good dealers know about ozone, and they promote it.  Ask them about DEL Ozone.

Which Dealer Should You Choose?

We can’t interview them all for you, though you can check out our Where to Buy page to help find reputable dealers. We sell only through dealers we believe will be providing good service in the years to come. When you are shopping for a new spa or hot tub, take the opportunity to interview the dealer as well.  Your dealer can greatly smooth the path to enjoying your spa investment for a long time.

When we look for a dealer, here’s some of the things we check out:

  • Does the dealer have a track record?  Usually, it’s a better bet on your future if they have a long past.  You want to be able to go back and find them still in business.
  • Does the dealer carry a full range of products?  You will need a replacement ozonator some day, you know.
  • Does the dealer have a maintenance technician?  This will be important at some point, and you’ll want to deal with a known quantity with your dealer in the loop for backup.
  • Will the dealer give you references?  If they have satisfied customers, they will probably work to keep you happy, too.

We hope this helps. Enjoy your spa!  And get in touch with us if you have any questions about spa sanitation.  We are expert at that.

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Posted by DELOzone on October 10, 2010 | Trackbacks

Getting that Perfect Spa Water Balance

August 26th, 2010

As an ozone company, you might expect us to tell you to turn on the ozonator and forget about sanitation.  But we won’t do that.  The DEL Ozone spa ozone generator in your spa is your powerful first line of defense against water contaminants, including dangerous micro-organisms. But it isn’t designed to take the full sanitation load.

Spa Water Balance Needs Sanitation Balance

We recommend the following prescription for pure, fresh spa water (and it’s the easiest prescription we know of that actually works):

  • Keep a well performing DEL Ozone ozonator in your hot tub, with the pump running at least six hours per day (ozone is only injected when the pump is running).
  • Maintain a low level of accessible chlorine (about .5 to 1 part per million) to provide background sanitation.
  • Check the pH and alkalinity levels frequently — your chlorine works better in a pH balanced tub.

That’s about it.  With routine filter maintenance and periodic water changes, you should be able to enjoy your spa time after time.

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Posted by DELOzone on August 26, 2010 | Trackbacks

Simple Spa Cover Maintenance Saves Money

August 17th, 2010

What’s the first thing you see when you walk out on the deck for a dip in your spa? The spa cover. And what’s the first thing you see when your open your spa? The underside of the spa cover – it’s the hidden underside where the story gets interesting (and where your money can quickly disappear).  Read on.

Spa covers are expensive ($300 to $700 or more), and between the sun beating down from above and chemicals bombarding from below, they often don’t last nearly as long as they should. What’s worse, manufacturers warranties do not cover damage from “normal wear and tear.” Thus, even if a cover is completely waterlogged and useless within a year, it is the financial liability of the spa owner. Spa covers can last up to seven years, so how do you ensure that you’re making the most of your investment?

The Visible Spa Cover Maintenance Story: The Outer Skin

The vinyl that tops your spa cover can degrade over time when exposed to sunlight or when it’s allowed to mildew. Washing and protecting your spa cover monthly will keep it looking great and performing like new for years.

  1. Rinse the dust and dirt from your cover
  2. Wash with a mild liquid detergent and a sponge or soft brush if necessary
  3. Rinse again
  4. Dry with a soft, clean towel
  5. Apply 303 Protectant (blocks UV rays, preventing fading and cracking of the vinyl)
  6. Dry again with a soft, clean towel

You’ve probably seen all that before. But here’s where it gets interesting.

The Under(spa)cover Maintenance Story: The Spa Ozonator

Chemical overdosing of your spa water does more than dry out your skin. It also eats away at the underside of the spa cover, causing discoloration and exposing the cover to water intrusion. Once again, this is NOT covered by manufacturers warranties, so it is up to the spa owner to maintain it.

The simplest way to keep your chemical additives to a minimum? Ozone.

Does your spa have an ozone generator? (Most spas come installed with one). If you’re feeling brave you can check under the spa skirt yourself, or else call your regular spa service technician to walk you through this process and the subsequent steps. If you find that you haven’t an ozone generator, learn more about why it’s a great fit for your spa.

Test the ozone generator to ensure that it is functioning properly (if your generator hasn’t been serviced in over three years, it may be time for a renewal or replacement). Your spa tech can test the ozone generator with an Ozone Test Kit to make sure it is supplying sufficient ozone.  If it isn’t, he or she can also help you choose a replacement ozonator that will fit with your spa and how you use it.

Make sure that the ozone is being properly injected into the spa water. Ozone is a powerful sanitizer, but if it doesn’t dissolve into the water then it won’t sanitize it. So the final step in your ozone quest is to make sure the tubing and injector part of the ozone delivery system are working.  Basically, these need to be replaced every 2 to 3 years.  The tubing from the ozonator will include a check valve to keep water from backing into the ozone generator (though DEL ozonators are not destroyed by water like some are) and an injector at the point where the ozone enters the waterline from the pump. You can replace these if you are even a little bit handy — if you prefer, it’s a very quick job for your spa maintenance tech.

And by the way:  that spa ozone generator is also the source of your fresh spa water with fewer harsh chemicals.  It’s a winner, and a money saver too.

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Posted by DELOzone on August 17, 2010 | Trackbacks

Thank the Ozone Generator for Your Great Spa Water

July 28th, 2010

View our latest Slideshare presentation to learn about the role of your spa ozone generator in maintaining fabulous spa water.

View more presentations from DEL Ozone.

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Posted by DELOzone on July 28, 2010 | Trackbacks
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